Faucet Installation Cost: Kitchen, Bathroom & Outdoor
Swapping a faucet with one you bought runs $150 – $400 in labor. The faucet itself is $80 – $600 depending on type and finish. Bathtub faucets cost more ($225 – $600) because they involve valve work, and an outdoor spigot runs $150 – $400. Here is the breakdown by location and what a seized old faucet adds.
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| Location | Labor range | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Kitchen faucet | $150 – $400 | Single fixture, you supply the faucet |
| Bathroom faucet | $150 – $350 | Vanity sink, similar to kitchen |
| Bathtub / shower faucet | $225 – $600 | Valve work, not just a deck swap |
| Outdoor spigot / hose bib | $150 – $400 | Sweat or thread a new sillcock |
| Pot filler (new line) | $350 – $900 | New supply run behind the stove |
| Tier | Unit price | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Standard single or two-handle | $80 – $250 | Common kitchen or bath faucet |
| Pull-down / pull-out kitchen | $150 – $400 | Spray head on a hose |
| Touchless / motion-sensor | $200 – $600 | Battery or transformer powered |
| Pot filler | $150 – $600 | Wall-mounted at the range |
| Item | Range | When it applies |
|---|---|---|
| Corroded / seized faucet surcharge | $50 – $200 | Old nuts and lines fight the removal |
| New shutoff valves | $75 – $200 | Old stops seized or weeping |
| New supply lines | $15 – $40 | Replaced on most installs |
| Sink-hole adjustment / deck plate | $20 – $80 | Going from 3-hole to single, or vice versa |
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What a standard faucet swap includes
Replacing a kitchen or bathroom faucet with one you bought is a $150 – $400 labor job. The plumber shuts off the supply, disconnects the old faucet, clears the old hardware and any sealant from the deck, sets the new faucet, connects the supply lines, and runs water to check for leaks under the sink and at the base. New braided supply lines go on as a matter of course, and the plumber often replaces tired shutoff valves while under there.
The faucet itself is separate: $80 – $250 for a standard single or two-handle model, $150 – $400 for a pull-down kitchen faucet with a spray head. Matching the new faucet to your sink hole count matters, since going from a three-hole sink to a single-hole faucet may need a deck plate. If a connection later weeps, our walkthrough on a leak under the kitchen sink traces it before it reaches the cabinet floor.
The corroded faucet surcharge
A faucet swap is quick when the old hardware lets go cleanly. It is not quick when the mounting nuts are corroded to the threads, the supply lines are seized at the valves, or the old faucet has been weeping long enough to weld itself to the deck. In hard-water and older homes, this is common, and it adds $50 – $200 to the job in cutting, penetrating oil, and careful work to avoid cracking the sink.
The related trap is the shutoff valve. If the under-sink stops are old gate valves that will not fully close or that drip once disturbed, replacing them ($75 – $200) belongs on the same visit, because nobody wants to discover a leaking stop after the new faucet is in. Mention the age of your sink and valves on the phone so the quote reflects the real condition, not the ideal one.
Bathtub and shower faucets are valve work
A bathtub or shower faucet is not a deck-mounted swap. The handle, spout and trim connect to a valve inside the wall, so the labor is $225 – $600 and overlaps with valve service. Often the actual fix is the cartridge inside that valve, not the visible trim, which is why a dripping tub faucet and a dripping shower share the same root.
If your tub faucet drips, runs uneven temperatures, or the diverter no longer sends water up to the showerhead, that points at the cartridge or valve, and our shower valve replacement guide covers what that costs and why an access panel keeps it cheap. Replacing only the visible trim without addressing the valve underneath rarely fixes a real leak.
Outdoor spigots and pot fillers
An outdoor spigot, or hose bib, runs $150 – $400 to replace. A like-for-like swap of a threaded spigot is at the bottom of that range; a frost-proof sillcock that has to be soldered onto copper, or one buried behind siding, runs higher. In cold climates, a frost-proof model that shuts water off inside the heated wall is the right replacement, and our hose bib replacement guide covers when a burst spigot means more than a simple swap.
A pot filler is the opposite of a swap, because it usually means running a new cold supply line through the wall behind the range. That new line, plus the wall-mounted faucet and the patch afterward, puts a pot filler at $350 – $900 in labor on top of the $150 – $600 fixture. If there is no existing supply nearby, it is a small remodel, not a fixture change.
Touchless and upgrade tiers
Touchless and motion-sensor faucets ($200 – $600 for the unit) add a sensor and a power source: either a battery pack under the sink or a small transformer that needs a nearby outlet. The plumbing install is the same as any faucet; the extra step is the power and sensor setup, which adds a little time but rarely much cost if an outlet is present.
Across all of these, the pattern holds: the labor to set a faucet is fairly consistent, and what moves your total is the fixture you choose and the condition of what is already under the sink. A new faucet on sound valves with clean hardware is a one-hour job; the same faucet on corroded nuts and dead shutoffs is the job that runs to the top of the range. Once the new faucet is in, weak flow usually traces to a clogged aerator at the spout tip rather than the install itself.
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